Wearing apparel and method of making same



Patented Aug. 116, i938 UNITED STATES mae- WEARING APPAREL AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Alfred J. Steinberger, Jamaica, N. Y., assignor to Celanese Corporation of America, a corporation of Delaware No Drawing. Application June 29, 1935, Serial N0. 29,029

6 Claims.

5 laminating a plurality of layers of textile materials comprising thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose while the same are at least partially plastic.

This invention is a continuation in part of my application S. No. 24,000 filed May 29, 1935.

An object of my invention is to form relatively stiff and/or rigid wearing apparel or similar articles in an economical and expeditious manner by shaping textile materials, comprising filaments of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose, while at least partially plastic with the aid of heat and pressure. Another object of my invention is the simultaneous shaping and laminating into shaped wearing apparel of a plurality of relatively fiat layers of textile material. Other objects of this invention will appear from the following detailed description.

The formation of stiffened wearing apparel, such as parts of girdles, glove gauntlets, shoes, hats, caps or parts thereof, such as linings, bands, etc., having shapes in three dimensions, from relatively fiat textile material presents a difficulty since, in order to obtain the desiredshape, it is necessary to form them from a relatively large number of small pieces of fabric, generally by cutting and sewing small pieces together. Although shaped textile materials have been formed in the past, they lacked rigidity or stiffness unless the same were treated with sizes and like stiffening material that may be objectionable in the use of the article.

I have found that such stiffened wearing apparel can be formed very simply and expeditiously by shaping at least partially plastic textile material with the aid of pressure, the textile materials being relatively fiat and comprising an assembly of several layers laminated together, at least one of the layers containing filaments of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose. The shaped or three dimensional portions of the article may be formed of a single assembly of laminated material eliminating any necessity of sewing the article. In a prefererd form of my invention, the lamination or welding together of the assembly of fabrics is performed concurrently with the shaping operation. The shaping action does not preclude the possibility of finishing the article with hems, taping, etc. around the edge or in the body portions of same, if the same is desired.

Inaccordance with my invention, then, I form shaped wearing apparel, or similar articles, from relatively fiat pieces of textile materials, comprising at least some filaments of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose. The desired shape is 5 imparted to such textile materials while holding the same against creasing and under such conditions that the filaments of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose are rendered at least partially plastic. The resulting article is made stiif or rigid by laminating together two or more fabrics either prior to, during or after the shaping operation.

Any suitable wearing apparel or similar article may be made by this invention. However, it is of particular importance in connection with the formation of wearing apparel, or similar articles, that have shapes in three dimensions. Examples of such wearing apparel and similar articles are hats, linings for hats, sweat bands for hats, visors for caps, glove gauntlets, collars, parts of shoes, and parts of brassieres, corsets and girdles. It is also applicable to articles made in three dimensions that are not normally classed as wearing apparel, for instance, rigid or semi-rigid containers, lamp shades, belts and luggage.

The material to be shaped may consist of several layers of textile material, at least one of said layers of the material containing thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose, particularly organic derivatives of cellulose, such as the organic esters of cellulose and the cellulose ethers. Examples of organic esters of cellulose are cellulose acetate, cellulose formate, cellulose propionate and cellulose butyrate, while examples of cel-' lulose ethers are ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose and benzyl cellulose. The thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose may be present in one or more of the layers of fabric as filaments or yarns woven into the fabric. The filaments may be present in substantially continuous lengths or they may be in the form of short staple lengths associated together to form spun yarn. The spun yarn may be formed by either the cotton or woolen method of spinning yarns. One layer of the material may consist wholly of such filaments or yarns containing such filaments, or it may contain yarns of substantially continuous fine filaments of organic derivatives of cellu- 50 lose. On the other hand, one layer of the textile material. may comprise material which is heavier than ordinary fabric, such, as, for example, material made by weaving or braiding heavier filaments, e. g. artificial hair, bristles or 55 straw containing an organic derivative of cellulose.

The plurality'of layers offabric to be shaped and welded together may consist of a fabric containing organic derivatives of cellulose sandwiched between fabrics containing other textile materials, or two layers of textile material containing organic derivatives of cellulose may have sandwiched between them a fabric formed of other textile materials. A more preferred material to be shaped, however, is that consisting of two or more layers of fabric formed solely of organic derivatives of cellulose wherein in the lamination process the fabrics are so treated that at least one outside layer of same is not materially altered by the welding action.

I have found that if plasticizers for the organic derivatives of cellulose or other thermoplastic materials are present only in such fabrics containing organic derivatives of cellulose'or other thermoplastic yarn which is to be coalesced, and not present in such fabrics containing the or ganic derivative of cellulose yarn, say the outer layer of fabric, that is not to be coalesced, good stiifening effects and firm adhesion may be obtained by the application of heat and pressure. However, the organic derivative of cellulose yarn in the fabric in which no plasticizer is present or to which no plasticizer has been applied, suffers little, if any, coalescence-or change in appearance. In this manner, it is possible to make laminated fabric, and shape the same, in which the outer layer of fabric containing organic derivative of cellulose yarn retains substantially its original appearance. M

As stated above, in order that the desired degree of stiffening and pressing between the layers of fabric be attained upon heating and pressing of same in the presence of water, water vapor or other moistening agent, it is of importance that there be also present in the assembly being treated a plasticizer or relatively high boiling or non-volatile solvent for the organic derivative of cellulose. This plasticizer may be caused to be present in the assembly in any suitable manner. Thus, it may be incorporated in or applied to the organic derivative of cellulose yarns or filaments, either by way of the dope or spinning solution from which they are formed or by spraying, dipping or otherwise treating the organic derivative of cellulose yarns or filaments, or the fabric containing the same, with the plasticizer or a mixture or solution of the plasticizer with a volatile solvent, such as benzol, ethyl or methyl alcohol or other swelling or penetrating agent for the organic derivative of cellulose, and permitting the solvent to evaporate. v

Any suitable plasticizer may be employed, which plasticizer may or may not be soluble in water. Examplesof suitable relatively waterinsoluble plasticizers for the organic derivative of cellulose are dirnethyl phthalate, diethyl phthalate and di-methoxyethyl phthalate, CeH4 (COOCHa.CH2OCH2) 2; while examples of relatively water-soluble plasticizers are diethy tartrate, dimethyl tartrate, monoacetin, diacetin, triacetin, etc. A mixture of two or more of these plasticizers may be used. In some cases, it is advantageous to employ a mixture of water-soluble and water-insoluble plasticizers, so that upon subsequent laundering the whole or part of the water-soluble plasticizer is removed. The amount of plasticizer present is preferably substantial,

and is on the order of from less than 25% to.

150% or more based on the weight of the organic derivative of cellulose present. 1 lThe assembly to be treated should comprise at least two layers of fabric. One layer of the assembly should either consist wholly of organic derivative of cellulose yarn or be a mixed *fabric containing yarn of organic derivatives of cellulose alternating either in the warp or weft or both, or any desired degree of alternation, with yarns of other fibres, such as cotton, regenerated cellulose, linen, wool or natural silk. This altere. nation may be, for instance, one, two, three or more organic derivative of cellulose yarns with one, two, three or more yarns of cottonor other non-thermoplastic fibres. For convenience, the warp in one fabric of the assembly may be made with such alternation of organic derivative of cellulose yarn with yarns of other fibres, while the weft may consist wholly of such organic derivative of cellulose yarn or wholly of yarns of other fibres. However, the weft may consist of an alternation of such organic derivative of cellulose yarns with non-thermoplastic substitute yarns of other fibres. In which case, if the fabric -is made in ordinary looms, the alternations will be preferably in two's or multiples of two's. If desired, a-fabric may be used in which either the warp or weft consists wholly of organic derivative of cellulose yarn while the other com-. ponents consist of non-thermoplastic yarn.

Instead of employing a woven fabric, a knitted or netted fabric may be employed. Also, a fabric containing mixed yarn containing both filaments or fibres of organic derivatives of cellulose and fibres of cotton, wool or other non-thermoplastic textile material may be employed.

When the welding together of the layers of fabric is formed concurrently with the shaping operation, it may be of advantage to have all the layers of fabric, other than the outside layer, formed from yarns of organic derivatives of cellulose, knitted into a fabric. The knitted fabric allows for stitch distortion as well as stretching of the filaments during the shaping operation. This ability of the fabric to be readily shaped expedites the shaping operation and is .less likely to cause creases in the resulting article After the fabrics have been caused to weld together or coalesce, there is no further stitch distortion in the knitted fabric as the stitches have been locked.- Notwithstanding the ease with which the knitted fabric may be pulled, pushed or distorted into shape prior to the laminating process, after the same has been welded to or coalesced with another layer of knitted fabric or woven fabric, the step lends greatly to the rigidity of the resulting article.

Two, three, four or more of such fabrics may be assembled I d these fabrics may be of the same or diifere t construction. In order that the layer of fabric that is to be exposed to view presence of a plasticizer.

should retain its fabric structure and appearance, the coalescence of the organic derivative of cellulose yarn' therein should be avoided. To prevent coalescence of the outside layer, it is important that no plasticizer be present in this,

fabric that is united throughout, or the fabric may be united only in local areas by application of heat and pressure at the desired local areas only. By applying plasticizers to the assembly in localized areas the article may be shaped, yet only parts thereof will be stifiened. Further, by regulation of the heat and/or plasticizer the article may be united throughout or only in localized areas. If desired, the assembly may be welded together throughout and shaped at only localized areas.

In order to increase the opacity of the final product or to impart special color efi'ects thereto, finely divided white pigments, such as titanium dioxide or antimony dioxide, or colored pigments, such as lamp black, may be incorporated in the cellulose acetate yarn.

To obtain good adhesion, water, steam, an aqueous liquid, or other moistening agent should preferably be present during the application of heat and pressure in accordance with this invention. The water or aqueous liquid, etc. may be applied to the assembly of fabrics having at least one layer containing organic derivative of cellulose yarn and plasticizer in any suitable manner, such as by dipping, spraying or brushing. A convenient manner of Wetting the assembly is by padding. the same with water. Both sides of the assembly should be wetted with water, as it is desirable that all the layers of the fabric pres out be wetted therewith when heat and pressure is applied. It is preferable to wet the assembly just prior to inserting same in the shaping mold. The heat and pressure applied during the shaping operation is sufficient to cause the coalescence and welding of the assembly together without, however, afiecting the appearance or texture of the outer layers.

If desired, the assembly, if consistingor" fabrics all of which contain thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose, may be weld-ed together prior to the shaping operation. This may be done in any suit= able manner, for instance, by hot ironing or passing the assembly between pressure rolls, one or both of which are heated, or between a heated roller and a heated or cold plate or surface, or

plastic derivative of cellulose present in the between a heated pressing iron or plate and a' cold board or surface. The welding may be effected at any suitable temperature, for instance, Sit-18c C. or more and the pressure applied may be on the order of from iii-dill pounds per square nch.

The shaping of the assembly may be done while the r'abrics'are heated to such a degree that the filaments of organic derivatives therein are at least partially plastic under the prevailing condi= tions. The temperature of treatment will vary not only with the nature of the particular thermo= textile material, but also with the amount of water or water vapor and/or organic compounds having a plasticizing action present. Thus, if the assembly contains fabric made of yarnsof acetone soluble cellulose acetate shaped between or on a forming device, the temperature required may be above EGU C. while the upper temperature limit should be below NW C. v

The shaping and laminating of the assemblies may be performed by hand blocking or on any suitable device. The device disclosed in my S. application S. No. 24,900, filed May 29, 1935, may be employed and, as therein disclosed, the aqueous liquid or vapor necessary in the laminat ing step may be applied concurrently with the application of heat and pressure.

It is to be understood that the fc aregoing detailed description is given merely by way of illustra-= tion and that many variations may be made therein Without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having described my invention, what I desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a method of forming articles of wearing apparel or similar articles that have rigidity, the steps of assembling a plurality. of fabrics formed of yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose, one of which contains a plasticizer, and subjecting the article to a stretching action with the aid of heat and pressure in the presence of an aqueous medium and while the organic derivative of cellulose is at least partially plastic.

2. In a method of forming articles of wearingapparel or similar articles that have rigidity, the steps of assembling a plurality of fabrics formed of yarns of cellulose acetate, one of which contains a plasticizer, and subjecting the article to a stretching action with the aid of heat and pressure in the presence of an aqueous medium and while the cellulose acetate is at least partially plastic.

- 3. In a method of forming articles of wearing apparel or similar articles that have rigidity, the steps of assembling a plurality of fabrics, the outer layer of which is woven from yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose and the remaining layers knitted of yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose, one of said knitted fabrics contaim,

ing a plasticizer therefor, and shaping the article with the aid of heat and pressure in the presence of an aqueous medium and under such conditions that the organic derivative of cellulose is at least partially plastic.

i. In a method of forming articles of wearing apparel or similar articles that have rigidity, the steps. of assembling a plurality of fabrics, the outer layer of which is woven from yarns of cellu= lose acetate and the remaining layers knitted 0i yarns of cellulose acetate, one of said knitted fabrics containing a plasticizer therefor, and shaping the article with the aid of heat and pressure in the presence of an aqueous medium and under such conditions that the cellulose acetate is at least partially plastic.

5. In a method of forming articles of wearing apparel or similar articles that have rigidity, the

steps of assembling a plurality of fabrics, the outer layer of which is woven from yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose and the remaining layers knitted of yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose, one of said knitted fabrics containing a plasticizer therefor, and stretching and shap= ing the article with the aid or heat and pressure in the presence of an aqueous medium.

6. In a method oiforming articles of wearing apparel or similar articles that have rigidity, the

steps of assembling a plurality of fabrics, the outer layer of which is woven from yarns of cellu lose acetate and the remaining layers knitted of yarns of cellulose acetate, one of said knitted iii) iii)

fabrics containing a plasticizer therefor, and

stretching and shaping the article with the aid of heat and pressure in the presence of an aqueous medium.

iii 

